A Day in the Life of a Boatman: Stories from the Ganges in Varanasi

Varanasi, also known as Benares or Kashi, is a city located on the banks of the river Ganges in the northern Indian state of Uttar Pradesh. It is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, and it is considered to be one of the holiest places in Hinduism.

For centuries, the river Ganges has been a lifeline for the people of Varanasi. Boatmen have been ferrying passengers across the river for centuries, and they play a vital role in the daily life of the city.

In this post, we will take a glimpse into the life of a boatman on the Ganges in Varanasi.

The day of a boatman in Varanasi starts early. They wake up before sunrise to get their boats ready for the day. They clean the boats and make sure they are in good condition for the day’s work.

Once the boats are ready, they start waiting for passengers at the ghats, the steps leading down to the river. There are around 88 ghats in Varanasi, and each one has its own significance and purpose. Some are used for bathing, while others are used for cremation.

As the day begins, the boatmen start getting passengers. Some people take boats to bathe in the holy river, while others take boats to go to the other side of the river for work or to visit temples. Boatmen also take tourists on boat rides to see the ghats from the river. The boatmen have to negotiate the price with each passenger, and it can vary depending on the distance and the number of passengers. They have to be careful not to overcharge, as it can lead to disputes with passengers.

The boat ride on the Ganges is an experience in itself. The boatmen row their boats using oars, and the passengers can feel the cool breeze of the river and see the city from a different perspective. As the boat moves along the river, the boatmen share stories about the ghats and the city’s history. They also sing devotional songs, which add to the spiritual experience of the ride.

As the day progresses, the boatmen take a break for lunch. They either pack their own food or buy food from the vendors on the ghats. They sit on the boats and eat their lunch while chatting with their colleagues. It is a time to relax and recharge for the rest of the day’s work.

After lunch, the boatmen continue their work. The afternoon is usually quieter than the morning, and the boatmen take this time to rest or do some repairs to their boats. Some boatmen also use this time to catch fish in the river, which they can sell in the local market.

As the sun starts to set, the boatmen start to wind down their work for the day. They take fewer passengers and spend more time chatting with each other. They also take time to watch the Aarti ceremony, a daily ritual in which devotees offer prayers to the river. The ceremony involves chanting, ringing bells, and waving lamps, and it is a beautiful sight to behold from the river.

As the day comes to a close, the boatmen start to head back to their homes. They dock their boats for the night and make sure they are secure. Some boatmen live near the ghats, while others have to travel some distance to reach their homes. For many boatmen, their families have been in the business for generations, and it is a way of life for them.

Final remarks

In conclusion, the life of a boatman on the Ganges in Varanasi is a unique and challenging one. They have to wake up early, negotiate prices with passengers, row their boats for hours, and deal with the vagaries of the weather. But it is also rewarding, as they get to experience the beauty and spirituality of the river Ganges every day. They are an integral part of the city’s daily life and play a crucial role in ferrying passengers across the river. Their stories and songs add to the charm and mystique of the city, making them an essential part of the cultural fabric of Varanasi.

If you ever visit Varanasi, don’t miss the chance to take a boat ride on the Ganges and experience the city from a different perspective. And make sure to chat with the boatmen and listen to their stories, as they have a wealth of knowledge and insights to share.